(369) My Evidence-Based Skincare Routine - YouTube

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OrElyY7MFVs

ai 总结

1. 每天早晚两次使用保湿霜：推荐使用来自 Eucerin、CeraVe 或 La Roche-Posay 等公司的标准保湿霜，以保持肌肤水分和滋润度。
2. 每天使用防晒霜：强调防晒霜的重要性，特别是 SPF 50 级别的产品，以保护皮肤免受紫外线伤害。
3. 每晚使用维甲酸类产品：介绍了维甲酸类产品的抗衰老效果，包括减少皱纹、均匀肤色和促进皮肤细胞再生。
   1. tretinoin 这类刚开始使用的时候少量先尝试，同时用完使用足够的面霜来保湿
4. 温和的清洁步骤：建议使用温和的洁面产品，如 CeraVe 水合洁面乳，以保持肌肤清洁而不干燥。

为什么选择cerave

Ai

CeraVe是一种备受推崇的护肤品牌，因为它的产品配方中含有许多对皮肤有益的成分。以下是一些推荐CeraVe的原因：

1. 温和而有效：CeraVe的产品通常被设计为温和且适合各种肤质，包括敏感肌肤。它们的配方中常含有水杨酸、透明质酸和尿囊素等成分，有助于保持皮肤水分、平衡油脂和修复肌肤屏障。

2. 医学背景：CeraVe的产品配方是由皮肤科医生开发的，因此在配方中通常包含医学上认可的成分，有助于解决各种皮肤问题。

3. 价格实惠：相对于其他高端护肤品牌，CeraVe的价格相对亲民，性价比较高。

4. 多样性：CeraVe提供了各种不同类型的护肤产品，包括洁面乳、面霜、防晒霜等，可以满足不同肤质和需求的人群。

总的来说，CeraVe是一个备受欢迎的护肤品牌，因为它的产品质量好、价格实惠且适合各种肤质。

Transcript:

• 00:00 Ali Abdaal (00:00): All right. So having the perfect   skincare routine is actually pretty simple.  All you need is a few things. Number one,   use a moisturiser, number two, use some kind of  sunscreen every day. Number three, use some kind   of retinoid every evening. Feel free to wash your  face with a cleanser if you really want to.
• 00:13 And in   fact, you can do two in one and you can get this  sunscreen moisturiser combination. And that is all   you need to know to get a really solid skincare  routine going, but, okay, let’s go a little bit   deeper into the details.
• 00:26 Like why should we have a  skincare routine in the first place? And then what   is the scientific evidence that these are the  sorts of products that we should actually care   about? Well, there’s two main reasons. Number one  for healthy skin and number two for pretty skin.   And a question that I like to think about is what  are the actions that I can take right now today   that my future self would be very glad for.
• 00:39 Ali Abdaal (00:38):   So in theory, if I can find the perfect evidence  based productive skincare routine that helps me   maximise my skincare results with minimum effort,  then I’m winning in terms of health and also in   there are millions of skincare products out there,  like avocado, face masks and charcoal cleansers,   and LED therapy and snail slime face creams.
• 00:56 Speaker 2 (01:06):   Slather On the slime. Ali Abdaal (01:07):   Now I trained as a doctor, but  I’m not a skincare specialist.   So I’ve enlisted the help of my friend, a New  York trained dermatologist Dr. Usama Syed to   find out exactly what we should actually be doing  to get good skin and apparently to get like 90%   of the results all we have to do is follow three  or four simple rules and we’ll do absolutely fine.  
• 01:17 So why should we actually use a moisturiser?  Well, the most important thing that the skin   does is that it acts as a barrier to the outside  world and it keeps irritants and allergens outside   of our body and locks in moisture. If our skin  loses moisture and gets dry and cracked, that   barrier gets weakened, which means inflamed red  itchy skin. And you might even get infections.  
• 01:34 Dr. Usama Syed (01:43): And the way the skin is built is that they   call it a brick and mortar system where, you  have the little cells, which are the bricks   called the keratinocytes and you have the mortar,  which is like the little paste in between it made   up of different types of fats and proteins.
• 01:49 Now  what these moisturisers do, especially the ones   that are evidence based, is they will replenish  that layer of paste to help keep that barrier   intact so you don’t lose moisture. Therefore,  you don’t have inflammation, itchy skin.   Ali Abdaal (02:07): Now anyone can get dry skin,   but you’re especially likely to get it after  having a hot shower because that dries out your   skin and strips away your natural protective  layer of oils.
• 02:06 So we want to find a good   moisturiser that rehydrates that skin, replaces  our natural fats and proteins and helps keep the   skin barrier intact. So what sort of moisturiser  do we actually want to get? Well, Usama’s main   recommendations for moisturiser are any standard  product from Eucerin, CeraVe, or La Roche-Posay,   mainly because those are huge companies that have  the budgets to do lots and lots of research and   quality control on their products. Dr.
• 02:25 Usama Syed (02:35):   I firmly believe no skincare products should ever  cost more than $30,becauseanythingbeyondthatpointisyo{u}^{\prime }repayingforthefluff.Theactiveingredientandgettingsomethingeffectivecanalwaysbedoneforlessthan$30. Ali Abdaal (02:46):   So what products do I use? Well, my main dedicated  moisturiser is from CeraVe and I use CeraVe PM   for moisturising in the evening. It’s very  nice. It’s very chill.
• 02:46 It’s available absolutely   everywhere. It’s reasonably priced and it feels  really nice on my skin. And then in the mornings   I use the Altruist dermatologist Face Fluid,  SPF 50 moisturiser, which is a moisturiser   combined with sun cream. And this brings us to  rule number two of my productive skincare routine,   which is to use a sunscreen every single day.
• 03:02 Ali Abdaal (03:12):   Well, have a look at this case report from the  New England Journal of Medicine, which is one   of the most prestigious medical journals in the  world. They looked at this truck driver who’d   spent 28 years working with just the left side of  his face, being exposed to sunlight through the   driver’s side window.
• 03:17 He’s 69 years old in this  photo, but the researchers said that the left   side of his face, which has a bunch of wrinkles  and damage from sun exposure is apparently more   like what you’d expect from an 86 year old skin.  That’s what the sun does to your skin, if you’re   regularly exposed to it without any protection.
• 03:29   And that happens even if you never actually get   sun burnt, but you just tan. Ali Abdaal (03:40):   Technically this is called photoaging or  dermatoheliosis. And it happens because the   sun is constantly bombarding us with UV radiation  that mutates the DNA in our skin cells. And then   in the long term, the more of this UV light  that we’re exposed to without protection, the   more we get wrinkles and dark spots from that DNA  mutation.
• 03:47 And that DNA mutation can also lead to   skin cancer, which is ultimately just unrepaired  DNA mutations that snowball into cancer.   Dr. Usama Syed (04:01): So what sunscreen does is it gives you an extra   layer of that protection, so that not relying  upon your own pigment, your own melanin. Instead,   we’re getting a physical barrier, which will stop  genetic mutations being created by the sun.
• 04:04 And   not only is that great for preventing skin cancer  also, it prevents things like photoaging.   Ali Abdaal (04:18): All right. So what sort of sun cream should   you get? Well, there’s loads of different options  on the market, but there’s mainly three things   that you want consider here.
• 04:16 Well, the first  thing you want to look for is that you want to   find a sunscreen that’s broad spectrum. Now, back  in the day, people used to think that it was only   UVB raise rays that actually damaged our skin.  But now we know that it’s UVA rays and also UVB   rays and broad spectrum sunscreen has protection  for both sorts of rays and therefore gives you the   maximum protection. Now some sunscreen is physical  and some is chemical.
• 04:35 It doesn’t really matter   which type of variety you go for. What matters  is that the SPF is high enough. And that is the   second thing that we need to look out for. Now  the actual SPF number of the sunscreen refers to   how much longer it would take for the sun to make  your skin go red with the sunscreen on compared to   without the sunscreen on.
• 04:48 Ali Abdaal (04:58):   So if it would normally take one hour of direct  sunlight on your cheeks to make them a little bit   red, then in theory, with SPF 15, it would take 15  hours if you got exposed to the exact same amount   of sunlight.
• 05:01 But it’s not quite that simple and  there’s extra issues that we do want to consider   with SPF. Firstly, we don’t need to actually burn  for the sun to damage our skin and cause ageing,   we want to be protected well before our  skin actually gets physically red. Secondly,   the SPF is calculated based on a pretty thick  amount of sun cream actually going on the skin.   Dr.
• 05:15 Usama Syed (05:23): I do say don’t go below 30   typically. The number that you get on there, you  never truly get that level of protection based on   how normal people wear it. Because it would rely  on like a pretty thick layer of sunscreen, like   caked on there. Most of us will be getting around  like say 60% of that true SPF protection factor.  
• 05:28 So if you use a 50, you’ll actually get a 30. If  you use a 30 you’ll get a 15 kind of thing.   Ali Abdaal (05:42): And finally, in reality, we sweat and   smudge our faces all the time, which takes away  a lot of our sun cream protection during the day.   So in an ideal world, we actually want to top up  our sunscreen every few hours.
• 05:43 I don’t personally   bother with this, but what I do try and do is  I use a high SPF like SPF 50 because chances   are even with SPF 50, I’m only really likely to  get SPF 30 or 20 or 15 levels of protection. Now   the final thing to think about with sun cream is  comfort. And the issue with the max SPF sunscreens   is that they can be uncomfortable or make you  look like you’re wearing this sort of white   pasty makeup. And the thing we want to bear in  mind is that some SPF is way better than no SPF.  
• 06:06 So actually an SPF 30 sun cream that you actually  like and feels comfortable on your skin and that   you’re actually going to wear is way better than  the state of the art gold standard SPF 100 sun   cream that you buy once. Ali Abdaal (06:26):   And they never really use because it makes you  look like a clown. Right.
• 06:20 So what products do I   actually use? Well in the mornings, I use  Altruist dermatologist Face Fluid, which   has SPF 50 built into a moisturiser. So that’s  what I use on my face. This one costs about $11   here in the UK. And then usually on my body,  I will also use the Altruist dermatologist,   sun cream with SPF 50.
• 06:37 And this is what I use on  my arms, on my legs, on my neck, on my shoulders,   whatever, especially if it’s a very sunny day  and I’m going out in t-shirt and shorts and this   one’s actually really cheap. It’s about $4 or  five pounds here in the UK. But to be honest,   you can find whatever product works for you  in your country. It doesn’t really matter.   Ali Abdaal (06:58): All right.
• 06:50 So this one is a little bit more   rogue. So we’ve all probably heard of moisturisers  and sunscreen, but most people have not heard of   retinoids. And in fact, I hadn’t really heard of  retinoids as being good for normal people’s skin   even though I went to med school.
• 07:03 I only really  heard of retinoids being a treatment for acne   and that’s exactly what they started out as. It  was like this vitamin A based treatment for acne   in the 1970s. But then researchers found that the  active ingredient retinol actually had a bunch of   anti-ageing effects as well. Dr. Usama Syed (07:24):   I think it is as close as possible to a miracle  ingredient that you’ll get anywhere in the   world of skincare.
• 07:24 When it comes to retinoids  they genuinely lay a credible scientific case   for helping reduce pigment, unevenness, helping  to minimise wrinkles, help to minimise acne   breakouts. And they do all of these things to a  level where it’s noticed in clinical trial data   and on biopsy samples from the skin.  Something that does all of those things   with minimal to no downside I consider that to be  something which it really is worth your time.  
• 07:45 Ali Abdaal (07:54): Now there’s been a tonne of   research and studies into retinoids and like Usama  says, they’ve pretty consistently found that when   you apply a strong enough retinoid for a long  enough time, then there’s three main positive   effects that you get.
• 07:58 Firstly, retinoids reduce  wrinkles by promoting the growth of collagen and   elastic fibres in the dermis or the thick middle  layer of our skin. And if we have enough collagen   and elastic fibres deeper down in our skin,  then it gives our skin a healthy, young looking   structure. Ageing and UV damage makes us lose  these collagen fibres. And that’s what makes our   skin sag and look old.
• 08:14 The second positive thing  that you get from retinoids is that they reduce   uneven pigmentation, i.e. like dark or discoloured  spots that you get on your skin, particularly   again from sun damage. And thirdly retinoids also  make our skin cells regenerate faster, which means   our skin consistently looks fresh and new. Ali Abdaal (08:35):   So overall basically retinoids make most people’s  skin look younger and smoother and healthier.
• 08:30 So   if like me, you do want to start using a retinoid,  then remember that you are playing a really long   game because it does take a long time to see  results. And to be honest, when you’re young   and you don’t really have that many wrinkles,  I think it’s mostly preventative rather than   kind of curative as it were.
• 08:45 And the thing with  retinoids is that they can also make some people’s   skin feel a little bit more sensitive. It can make  your skin peel and it can sometimes make your skin   feel a little bit painful. And that’s why a lot of  people don’t actually stick with it long enough to   see the benefits.
• 08:56 So what sort of retinoid  should you get? Now, this is where it kind   of gets complicated because retinoids actually  come in different types of strength levels.   Ali Abdaal (09:10): Now the first big one is   retinols. Now retinols are part of the retinoid  family, but they are the weaker version. Now,   if you see any kind of skincare product labelled  anti-ageing and you can get it over the counter,   it usually has some kind of retinol in it,  i.e. the weaker version of a retinoid.
• 09:15 Then   we have retinoids, which are stronger and they’re  generally prescribed by a doctor. And tretinoin is   one of the most common ones and the one that I  use. You’ll see a bigger change with retinoids   than retinols because they’re stronger, but the  side effects can potentially be stronger as well,   like peeling and dry skin and like a little  bit more sensitivity.
• 09:30 So if you are going for   a retinoid, then it is worth it to be a little bit  more careful with these and maybe even consult a   doctor before actually start to here’s one. Dr. Usama Syed (09:46):   What I always tell people is when you’re using  a retinoid at the beginning, it should make you   feel a little bit dry at least.
• 09:44 If it doesn’t even  teeter on the edge of making you feel a bit dry,   you wonder whether you need a higher strength  because maybe your skin is just more tolerant   and maybe you need to apply more, because it  should be, especially at the beginning, it should   be like, Ooh, I feel a little bit dry today. Like  I need to put on more moisturiser since I started   my retinoid this first week. And if you don’t feel  that it’s probably not strong enough for you.  
• 09:59 Ali Abdaal (10:08): The over the counter   retinoid based product that Usama recommends for  beginners is Differin gel, which costs about $20   and has a slightly newer type of retinoid in it  called adapalene, which causes less irritation   than a lot of other retinoids.
• 10:12 But because that  one’s kind of hard to get in the UK, the one that   I get is actually from a place called Dermatica,  which is like this online consultation type thing.   They’re do an online consultation with you.  You send them some pictures of your skin.   It’s a bit of a faff initially because technically  a doctor has to review those images and prescribe   it for you at least here in the UK.
• 10:28 But then  once you’ve been prescribed it, they just send   you it every month. I’ve been getting the  deliveries for about seven months now.   Ali Abdaal (10:41): So I initially started on a 0.025% tretinoin   and then over the last seven or eight months,  it’s been up to 0.1% tretinoin which is like   a decent level of strength for a retinoid.
• 10:43 And  remember the general recommendation for retinoids   is to start with a tiny pea sized amount every  other night, and then work your way up to once a   night using lots of moisturiser at the same time.  And this helps keep your skin from drying out.   Dr. Usama Syed (11:03): So when it comes to cleanses is basically   water is good at removing debris, but a  cleanser is supposed to kind of help to   remove some of the oils that might stay on your  skin that are hard to remove with just water.  
• 11:04 Ali Abdaal (11:14): Some dermatologists say that if you’re using lots   of heavy cosmetics or if you have visible dirt or  like loads of sweat on your face, then yeah, you   can use a cleanser, but actually for most people  you could just clean your face using water without   needing to worry about these kind of products.
• 11:19   Anecdotally, for me, I find that on days where I’m   consistently using my cleanser morning and evening  those weeks, I tend to get a lot less breakouts   of like random shit on my face. Like I tend to  get kind of troubled areas around the nose and   stuff.
• 11:32 And generally I find that if I’ve forgotten  to cleanse, then I’m more prone to those kind of   things. So, and equals one. But yeah, this is rule  number four and it’s a little bit optional.   Dr. Usama Syed (11:46): It will have some benefit incrementally   and you should focus on a hydrating cleanser  that doesn’t end up stripping your skin of   all the oils and leaving you feeling tight.
• 11:47   It should end up being very gentle and in   the end, your skin should actually feel more  moisturised even after having cleansed it.   Ali Abdaal (12:00): So a hydrating cleanse like this one is going   to remove the oily stuff without theoretically  stripping away all of your skin’s natural oils.   And it’ll also usually contain special ingredients  like hyaluronic acid, which apparently keeps your   skin hydrated and ceramides, which is what all the  CeraVe products include, which are basically fats   that replace some of your skin’s natural oils  so you can lock in moisture and keep that skin  
• 12:10 barrier intact while also having a cleanser.  So the one that I use is the CeraVe hydrating   cleanser. It’s pretty reasonably priced and you  can get it from most places. And what I like   about the CeraVe products is that they’re very  like chill. They’re not like trying to overly   wow you with the avocado extract or the hero  ingredient.
• 12:29 It’s just literally it looks like   medication and that’s what skincare really needs  to look like. It doesn’t need to be as fancy as a   lot of these other really expensive products  that we get sold by random influencers.   Ali Abdaal (12:46): So here is my overall productive skincare routine,   adding up all of this evidence based stuff.
• 12:45 In  the morning, I wake up and I shower and I cleanse   my face in the shower with the CeraVe hydrating  cleanser. And then when I’m out of the shower,   I dry my face with a face towel and I  put on the Altruist SPF 50 Face Fluid,   which is the sunscreen and moisturiser rolled  into one. So just two products in the morning   and it’s super nice and easy.
• 13:02 And then in the  evening after brushing my teeth, I generally   wash my face with warm water. And again, I  use the CeraVe hydrating cleanser in the sink.   And then again, I dry my face with a face towel  and then I put on my Dermatica retinoid cream. And   then after giving it a few minutes to settle in, I  moisturise with the CeraVe PM moisturising lotion.   And that feels pretty good.
• 13:19 Ali Abdaal (13:29):   And that’s it. Like honestly, before having  this extensive conversation with Usama and a   few other dermatologists to be like, what should  I actually be using for my skincare routine, I   thought skincare was going to be this complicated  thing. And I didn’t want to bother with it,   but now like once I saw the before and after  photos and once I spoke to dermatologists   and they were like, yeah, these are the only  three or four products that actually matter.  
• 13:38 It simplified the whole thing. And now I’ve been  using this kind of productive skincare routine   for the past eight months I think now. Ali Abdaal (13:54):   You can also find my full interview with Usama  about skincare on my vlog channel. He goes in   depth on more products and treatments that he’d  recommend. So check it out if you like.
• 13:52 And if   you’re interested in more legit skincare advice  from an actual board certified dermatologist,   then definitely check out Usama’s channel linked  down in the video description. Hope you enjoy   the video. Hope you got something out of it and  hopefully see you in the next one. Bye-bye.